Miskolc

Etymology

The name derives from Miško, Slavic form of Michael. Miškovec → Miskolc with the same development as Lipovec → Lipólc, Lipóc. The name is associated with the Miskolc clan (also Miskóc or Myscouch, Slovak Miškovec, plural Miškovci) named after the settlement or vice versa. Earliest mentions are que nunc vocatur Miscoucy (around 1200), de Myschouch (1225), Ponyt de genere Myscouch (1230), in Miscovcy (1245).

Geography

The city lies at the meeting point of different geographical regions – east of the Bükk mountains, in the valley of the river Sajó and the streams Hejő and Szinva. According to the 2001 Census the city has a total area of 236.68 km2 (91.38 sq mi). The ground level slopes gradually; the difference between the highest and lowest area is about 800 m (2,600 ft).

The lowest areas are the banks of the river Sajó, with an altitude of 110–120 m (360–390 ft). The area belongs to the Great Plain region and is made up of sedimentary rocks. Between the Avas hill and Diósgyőr lies the hilly area of the Lower Bükk (250–300 m or 820–980 ft) consisting of sandstone, marl, clay, layers of coal, from the tertiary period, and volcanic rocks from the Miocene.

The Central Bükk, a gently sloping mountainous area with an altitude between 400 and 600 m (1,300 and 2,000 ft), is situated between Diósgyőr and Lillafüred; the area is made up of limestone, slate, dolomite and other rocks from the Triassic period. The surface was formed mostly by karstic erosions.

The highest area, the 600–900 m (2,000–3,000 ft) high Higher Bükk bore Bükk Highlands begin at Lillafüred. This mostly consists of sea sediments (limestone, slate, dolomite) from the Paleozoic and Mesozoic, and volcanic rocks like diabase and porphyry. Several caves can be found in the area. The city is also known for the lowest temperature ever recorded in Hungary at−35 °C (−31 °F).

Climate

Summers are fresh but sometimes warm and humid in Miskolc. Daytime temperatures of 20–30 °C (68–86 °F) or higher are commonplace. Snow and ice are dominant during the winter season. Miskolc receives about 120 centimetres of snowfall annually. Days below freezing and nights below −20 °C (−4 °F) both occur in the winter.

History

The area has been inhabited since ancient times – archaeological findings date back to the Paleolithic, proving human presence for over 70,000 years. Its first known dwellers were the Cotini, one of the Celtic tribes. Hungarians have settled the area since the conquest of the Carpathian Basin in the late 9th century. It was first mentioned by this name around 1210 AD. The Miskóc clan lost their power when King Charles I centralized his power by curbing the power of the oligarchs.

Following the devastating Mongol invasion of 1241–1242, which left the original local fortifications in ruins, Miskolc was elevated to the rank of oppidum (market town) in 1365 by King Louis I. He also had the castle of the nearby town Diósgyőr, now a district of Miskolc, transformed into a Gothic fortress. The city developed in a dynamic way, but during the Ottoman occupation of most of Hungary the development of Miskolc was brought to a standstill. The Ottomans under Suleiman the Magnificent took Miskolc in 1544 and the city prospered further until 1687. It was also ruled by Ottomans after Battle of Mezőkeresztes in 1596 as part of Eyalet of Egir until 1687. It was during these years that Miskolc became an important centre of wine-growing. By the end of the 17th century the population of the city was as large as that of Kassa/Košice, and 13 guilds had been founded.

During the war of independence against Habsburg rule in the early 18th century, Prince Francis II Rákóczi, the leader of the Hungarians, put his headquarters in Miskolc. The imperial forces sacked and burnt the city in 1707. Four years later half of the population fell victim to a cholera epidemic. Miskolc recovered quickly, and another age of prosperity began again. In 1724, Miskolc was chosen to be the city where the county hall of Borsod county would be built. Many other significant buildings were built in the 18th and 19th centuries, including the city hall, schools such as Lévay József Református Gimnázium és Diákotthon, churches, the synagogue, and the theatre. The theatre is commonly regarded as the first stone-built theatre of Hungary, although the first one was actually built in Kolozsvár (then a part of Hungary, now Cluj-Napoca, Romania). According to the first nationally held census (1786) the city had a population of 14,719, and 2,414 houses.

These years brought prosperity, but the cholera epidemic of 1873 and the flood of 1878 took many lives. Several buildings were destroyed by the flood, but bigger and grander buildings were built in their places. World War I did not affect the city directly, but many people died, either from warfare or from the cholera epidemic. It was occupied by Czechoslovak troops between 1918 and 1919 after the First World War.

Demographics

The population (around 1910) is multidenominational and multiethnical, and the differences in the level of education mirrors the stratification of society, following these facts. http://mek.oszk.hu/16900/16992

Religion

Dominant religion in Miskolc is Roman Catholicism followed by Calvinism and Greek Catholicism.

Economy

Miskolc is generally thought of as an industrial city, and the largest boost to its economy was indeed provided by the industrialization during the Socialist era; in fact industry (including metallurgy) has a long history in the city.

Miskolc was already an important market town in the Middle Ages, mostly due to its proximity to the main trade routes of the region. In regards of the economy, real development started only after the Ottoman occupation. In the 18th century, the town already had a lumber mill, a paper manufacture, a brewery, a gunpowder factory and fifteen mills on the Szinva stream. The glass works manufactures and iron furnaces appeared in the late 18th and early 19th centuries. The first iron furnace, built by Henrik Fazola around 1770, did not survive, but the second one, built in 1813, can still be visited. Several new settlements were formed in the Bükk mountains to provide dwellings for the workers of glass works manufactures and furnaces. Many of them – including Alsóhámor, Felsőhámor, Ómassa and Bükkszentlászló – are now parts of Miskolc.

Development quickened from the second half of the 19th century, partly because of the political situation (after the Ausgleich) and partly because of the newly constructed railway line. A large furnace (second largest in the country) was built in Diósgyőr, and several other factories were built. The mining industry became more and more important, too. Within forty years the population doubled. The industrialization led to the forming of Greater Miskolc with the unification of Miskolc and Diósgyőr (1945) and several nearby towns and villages (between 1950 and 1981). The unification was only the first step in Miskolc being developed into an industrial centre. Development reached its highest point in the 1980s, when the metal factory had more than 18,000 workers and production was over one million tons per year. The population hit all-time record (over 200,000 inhabitants), two-thirds of the working people worked in heavy industry.

The economic recession after the end of the Socialist era hit the industrial cities of Northern Hungary the hardest. The unemployment rate rose until it became one of the highest in the country, the population of Miskolc dramatically decreased (not only because of unemployment though, but also due to suburbanization which became prevalent nationwide). The economic situation of the city went through a change, smaller enterprises appeared in place of the large state-owned companies.

Sports

The most popular sport in Miskolc is football. The leading club of the city is Diósgyőri VTK (short name: DVTK). They have won the Hungarian Cup several times and represented Hungary many times in Europe. The capacity of the stadium, DVTK Stadion, is 14 655 and the stadium has under-soil heating and fully covered stands.

The other team, Miskolci VSC, plays in the county division. Miskolc has got other former first division representatives, namely Miskolci Attila (seven seasons at the highest level), and Perecesi TK (one).

Football teams

Diósgyőri VTK

Miskolci VSC

Miskolci Honvéd SE

Miskolci AK

Perecesi TK

Miskolc's most successful women's basketball team, DKSK Miskolc MISI, has won the National Cup twice.

The DVTK Jegesmedvék ice hockey team plays in the Slovak-based Tipsport Liga. The team's home rink, Miskolc Ice Hall, is in the People's Garden downtown. It has 1 304 seats, a total capacity of 2 200, and opened in 2006.

The women's volleyball team of MVSC also plays at the highest Hungarian level.

Former motorcycle speedway team Speedway Miskolc (8 times champions of Hungary) joined the Team Speedway Polish Championship from 2006 to 2010. They won the 2007 European Speedway Club Champions' Cup with world champion Jason Crump. They were based at the Borsod Volán Stadion.

City parts of Miskolc

Avas

The Avas is a hill (234 m or 768 ft) in the heart of Miskolc. On the hilltop stands the Avas lookout tower, the symbol of the city. On the northern part of the hill, close to downtown Erzsébet Square, is the Gothic Protestant Church of Avas, one of the two oldest buildings of Miskolc (the other is the Castle of Diósgyőr.) The limestone caves of Avas are used as wine cellars; the narrow, winding streets give a Mediterranean atmosphere to this part of Avas Hill. The southern part of Avas, also called Avas-South, is where the largest housing estate of the city stands, with 10-story Socialist-style concrete buildings providing homes for about one-third of the city's population.

Belváros (City centre)

Miskolc's city centre is not as rich in monuments as that of other cities; only the Main Street (Széchenyi St.), Városház tér (City Hall Square) and Erzsébet tér (Elizabeth Square) have preserved the 19th-century style of the town. There are not only historical buildings but also modern shopping malls and offices in the city centre.

Csanyik

The Csanyik Valley, or simply Csanyik (48°07′23″N 20°38′59″E), is a valley in Miskolc, near. With an area of 105.801 m2 it is the second largest green area of the city after Tapolca-Hejőliget. The Csanyik Valley stream is a tributary of the Szinva. The underlying geology of the valley is largely limestone. Oak and hornbeam forest covers the slopes while alder and beech grow alongside the stream.

The valley got its name after the mediaeval village of Csenik, which was first mentioned in documents in 1313, when Palatine István donated it to the Pauline monastery of Diósgyőr that he founded. The inhabitants of the village were mainly winegrowers. The village became extinct in the late 15th to early 16th century.

The Hungarian Young Communist League established a school in the valley, which was later repurposed as a sanatorium after the fall of communism. Following the closure of the health facility, plans for a recreation centre or football academy were suggested but in 2020 the buildings were lying abandoned and falling into a state of ruin.

The Miskolc Zoo in the Csanyik opened in 1983. Along with the People's Garden, Csanyik was a popular place for the people of Miskoic to celebrate Labour Day, and 1 May festivities continue to take place. On summer holidays (e.g. on the holiday of the city, 11 May) various events are held. Special trains of the Lillafüred Forest Train railway occasionally run through the valley to Mahóca on a branch line beginning near the Diósgyőr Paper Mill.

The Csanyik valley was one of five locations chosen for a mycology field expedition by the 27th European Cortinarius Conference in 2009.

Pharmaceutical company, Sanofi has a manufacturing plant at Csanyik that received significant investment in 2016 and 2020. The factory makes single-use syringes and in 2016 had around 500 employees. Hungary's state-owned Chinoin pharmaceutical company owned the site into the 1990s. in 2018 an educational trail was laid out which loops around part of the valley, starting at the Sanofi site. The trail, formed by a partnership of St Francis Hospital, Budapest and forestry management organisation, Északerdő Zrt, supported by Sanofi, is designed especially for people with heart problems, high blood pressure and diabetes.

Diósgyőr

The other town forming today's Greater Miskolc is mostly famous for its medieval castle. Miskolc's football team also got its name from Diósgyőr, since their stadium stands there. Historical Diósgyőr is connected to Historical Miskolc by a district called Új(diós)győr (Újgyőr); its main square is an important traffic hub. Also in Új(diós)győr (Diósgyőr-Vasgyár) stands the steel factory that made Miskolc the most important heavy industrial city of Hungary (and earned it the nickname "Steel City"). Diósgyőri Gimnázium also stands in this district.

Egyetemváros (University Town)

The University of Miskolc is among the newer ones. It was founded in the 1950s, so its buildings are not old, historical ones. University Town is one of the newer parts of the city and can be found between Miskolc and the holiday resort Miskolctapolca. The university, the campus, and the sport facilities are surrounded by a large park.

Hejőcsaba and Görömböly

Two former villages that were annexed to the city in 1945 and 1950. Görömböly still looks like a small town of its own.

Lillafüred

Another holiday resort, Miskolc-Lillafüred, is a village surrounded by the Bükk mountains. Its most notable building is the Palace Hotel (Palotaszálló).

Martin-Kertváros

Martin-Kertváros (in Slovak: Martinská osada) is a suburban area.

Miskolctapolca

One of the most well-known holiday resorts in the country, Tapolca (officially Miskolctapolca or Miskolc-Tapolca to avoid confusion with the Transdanubian town of the same name) is the home of the unique Cave Bath, a natural cave with thermal water. Tapolca is quite far from the city centre and counts as one of the posh areas of Miskolc. It is a popular tourist attraction.

Alsóhámor, Bükkszentlászló, Felsőhámor, Ómassa, Szirma

These former villages were annexed to the city in 1950 (Bükkszentlászló in 1981) and are still separated villages, connected to the city only by its public transport system.

Main sights

Downtown

Main street and City Hall Square with the atmosphere of Hungarian towns of the 19th century

Gothic Protestant Church of the Avas Hill

Greek Orthodox Church with the largest iconostasis in Central Europe

House of Arts with two art cinemas

Kós House (designed by Károly Kós in Art Nouveau and folk style, 1931)

Mindszent Church

Minorite Church and Heroes' Square

Miskolc-Avas TV Tower

National Theatre of Miskolc

Csodamalom Puppet Theatre

Ottó Herman Museum

Palace of Music

Wooden Church

Diósgyőr

Castle of Diósgyőr (built in the 13th century, had its prime during the reign of Louis the Great; medieval castle plays are held in every August)

Lutheran church of Diósgyőr

Protestant church of Diósgyőr (Baroque, built on the ruins of a mediaeval monastery)

Lillafüred

Anna Cave, István Cave, Szeleta Cave

Hotel Palace

Lake Hámori

Trout Farm

Waterfalls (the highest one in Hungary)

There is a narrow-gauge railway that connects Lillafüred to Miskolc known as the Lillafüredi Állami Erdei Vasút (Lillafüred Forest State Railway). It winds through scenic forests, and takes between a half hour and 45 minutes for the train to go between the two major stops. The Miskolc stop is located in Diósgyőr.

Miskolctapolca

Cave Bath of Miskolctapolca

Near to the city

Bánkút ski resort

Bükk Mountains

Miskolc Zoo

Ruins of the monastery at Szentlélek

Castell Earl Andrassy Tiszadob

Festivals

Diósgyőr Castle Plays (every May and August)

International Soldiers and Military Bands Festival (every two years in August)

Jelly festival (February)

Miskolc Opera Festival (every summer)

Miskolc International Film Festival (every September)

Schools

Avasi Grammar School

Ferenc Földes Secondary School

Kossuth Lajos Lutheran Grammar School and Pedagogical Secondary School

Lévay József Református Gimnázium és Diákotthon

Béla Bartók Music High School

Zrínyi Ilona Grammar School

Fáy András Economic High School

Berzeviczy Gergely School of Trade and Catering

Public transport

Public transport in Miskolc is provided by the company MVK Zrt., owned by the local government. There are 36 bus lines and 2 tram lines. The first tram entered service on 10 July 1897 (making Miskolc the third city in Hungary to have a tram line), the first scheduled bus line started on 8 June 1903 (first in the country as well.) Today the public transport of Miskolc is one of the best ones in Hungary. There are several taxi companies too.

The Lillafüred Forest Train connects Diósgyőr to Lillafüred. It is mainly a tourist attraction.

The city has two railway stations (Tiszai and Gömöri) and a small unpaved airport, which is not open to the public, used mainly as a sports facility and has no role in public transport since 1963.

Politics

The current mayor of Miskolc is Pál Veres (Independent).

The local Municipal Assembly, elected at the 2019 local government elections, is made up of 28 members (1 Mayor, 19 Individual constituencies MEPs and 8 Compensation List MEPs) divided into this political parties and alliances:

List of mayors

List of City Mayors from 1990:

Notable individuals

Including people born in Miskolc as well as in Diósgyőr and other city parts that were independent towns at the time of their birth.

Bela Borsody Bevilaqua (1885–1962) Cultural historian

Péter Biros (born 1976) water polo player

Gizella Bodnár, "Airplane Gizi" (1926-2019) thief

Alan A. Brown (1928–2010) economist

Gábor Dayka (1769–1796) poet

Ferenc Demjén (born 1941) singer

Sándor Ferenczi (1873–1933) psychoanalyst

Dezső Földes (1880–1950) 2x Olympic champion saber fencer

Lili Hajdú Gimesné (1891–1960), psychiatrist and psychoanalyst

Endre Granat (born 1937) violinist

Alexander Grossmann (1909–2003) Swiss writer, journalist

Károly Grósz (1930–1996) politician, president

Dezső Gyarmati (1927–2013) water polo player

Szabolcs Huszti (born 1983) football player

Márk Jedlóczky (born 1999) racing driver

István Jónyer (born 1950) table tennis player

Máté Kamarás (born 1976) singer and actor

Lived in Miskolc

Ferenc Bessenyei (Hódmezővásárhely, 1919 – Lajosmizse, 2004) actor

Béni Egressy (Sajókazinc, 1814 – Budapest, 1851) composer

Ottó Herman (Breznóbánya, 1835 – Miskolc, 1914) ornithologist, archaeologist, ethnographer

Pavol Országh Hviezdoslav (Felsőkubin, 1849 – Dolny Kubín, 1921) Slovak poet

Margit Kaffka (Nagykároly, 1880 – Budapest, 1918) writer

Teréz Karacs (Budapest, 1808 – Békés, 1892) pioneer in women's education

Béla Kondor (Pestlőrinc, 1931 – Budapest, 1972) graphic artist

Leo Lánczy (Pest, 1852 – Budapest, 1921) deputy

Ferenc Pulszky (Eperjes, 1814 – Budapest, 1897) politician, archaeologist, writer

Bertalan Szemere (Vatta, 1818 – Budapest, 1869) politician

Illés Trangus (Sabinov, 1704 – Miskolc, 1761) physician

Twin towns – sister cities

Miskolc is twinned with: