Tom George Longstaff (15 January 1875 – 26 June 1964) was an English medical doctor, explorer and mountaineer, most famous for being the first person to climb a summit of over 7,000 metres in elevation, Trisul, in the India/Pakistan Himalayas in 1907. He also made important explorations and climbs in Tibet, Nepal, the Karakoram, Spitsbergen, Greenland, and Baffin Island. He was a founding member of The Alpine Ski Club in 1908 and the Himalayan Club (1929), was elected as an Honorary Member of the Climbers Club in 1932 and was its President from 1933–1935 and was president of the (British) Alpine Club from 1947 to 1949.
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Early life
Longstaff was the eldest son of Lt-Col. Llewellyn W. Longstaff OBE of Wimbledon, the first and most generous supporter of Captain Scott's National Antarctic Expedition. His brother was Frederick Longstaff and his sister Katherine married Felix Wedgwood, the author and mountaineer who was killed in action during the First World War. Katherine was also an active mountaineer, becoming the president of the Ladies' Alpine Club for 1929-1931.
Longstaff was educated at Eton College, Christ Church, Oxford, and St Thomas' Hospital, London.